Enamored as we were with the Love Nest, Mexico is bigger than a single casita. With Sayulita on our minds, we ventured out along the barely contained jungle path through our resort. The village is only a five minute taxi ride, but we wanted to walk there. 
Turns out there’s a map for that! The super-friendly staff at Playa Esondida had a laminated version for us to study, but not borrow. We chose to capture the moment with an iPhone rather than rely on our vacation brains.
Meandering north from our idyllic resort beach, we came across some Huge Boulders and a Big Red House — just like the map says. We clambered over, passing by the casa rojo, to find ourselves at Carrizitos Beach, another gorgeous swath of sand that’s always deserted. Then we headed up a narrow horse trail through the jungle…
… which led to an unpaved road. Like most roads around here.
And like most roads in Mexico, and life in general, you never know what’s coming around the corner. This time it’s a gaucho from Rancho Manuel, with horses to rent. He stopped to say hola, hand us his card and trot on.
After a few more turns along the hilly jungle road, we passed a kaleidoscopic celebration of life, more festive than most Mexican graveyards, according to a local. It’s also used in a lot of directions, as in, “Playa los Muertos is the beach right beside the cemetery, ” (which may sound morbid but it’s a great little beach, complete with occasional lifeguards and heavily armed but friendly police) so it comes in handy to know its location.
As you reach the crest of the cemetery’s hill, you get your first view of Sayulita.
Originally a sleepy fishing village, this sandy bay, with its reliable wave action, got the attention of surfers in the sixties. Slowly it has become a mecca for vacationers seeking a safe haven in Mexico and an antidote to the all-inclusives.
We couldn’t wait to see it. But the path to Sayulita leads right through Villa Amor’s oceanfront property, a boutique hotel is known for its open-air rooms. On the left, their restaurant balcony jutting out of the seawall is a slice of Portofino, in the heart of Mexico.
Me and my amor couldn’t resist Villa Amor, our color story destiny. Besides, a mojito was mandatory before moving any further.
We managed to limit ourselves to uno and press on. Although it got overexposed in the sunlight, I recall taking this picture because of the boat’s name: Jaws. It sums up the vibe here: the traditional way of life co-existing good-naturedly with the modern.
Finally, after the vacation version of a 30-minute walk, we made it: Sayulita! Now one of my favorite little villages in North America. Coming soon: Around Town.
